Day 10: 18 August 2013: Part 2: Chang La to Tangtse

I had read somewhere that Chang La souvenir shop sold only K-top marked caps and merchandise. I thought to check and find out. One reason was also that I really wanted to get something which is hard to find. So I entered the shop and asked for Chang La cap. They said that it wasn’t available and all the merchandise were marked for Khardung La. I insisted them to again check and so they opened a metallic trunk and behold – they pulled out a Chang La cap! Got it for 150 bucks. 🙂

Having done that, we embarked on our onward journey, marked by presence of ice on road side and peaks, cloud and fog everywhere and of course running streams on the road. Some shots… (more…)

106 feet Maitreya

Day 9: 17 August 2013: Part 2: Turtuk to Deskit

So after having the tour of Turtuk Village and settling the bill, we started from Turtuk around 1200 hrs. Since the plan today is to visit Hunder and then spend the evening and night at Deskit, we’re not in a hurry.

So we start…

There are two areas between Hunder and Turtuk which are marked as “Shooting Stone” areas. Now, you don’t shoot the stones here, rather they shoot on you and the board clearly advises to zip-zap-zoom past the area. So we pick speed and just then I notice a bunker (more…)

Ecstatic with Joy

Day 8 : 16 August 2013 : Part 1 – Leh to Khardung La Top

We got up early in the morning and had our bath etc, for this probably would probably be the last place before we reach Keylong to have a bath.

While having breakfast, we talked to the two gentleman from Mumbai who were staying in the hotel for couple of days with some expensive photography equipment. One of them was an avid bird watcher and another a hiker who were planning to camp at Tso Moriri for couple of days to locate and identify some new migratory birds. Told them about WWF camp at Korzok as they might be helpful to them in their quest. Bid goodbye to them wishing that we shall meet again at Tso Moriri.

The breakfast and chit-chat at Jorchung means that we start only by 0730. We first rush to the petrol bunk at Leh-Manali route as this is the only one in and around Leh to get relatively cleaner fuel. Getting the tank full is also necessary considering that the next fuel stop would be at Karu after two days, since we would not be coming back to Leh and going to Pangong via Wari La. This, however, also means a return journey of extra 10-12 kms.

 

petrol bunk at leh

 

By 0800 hrs, we’re back in Leh town area. We cross this gate

Leh gateway

 

We take right on a road which unlikely seems to be a national highway, but the signboard proclaims so and we believe it rather than the onboard MMI GPS navigator, which we know fails in Ladakh at times. The first stop is at Takski CP.

takski cp

 

We proceed ahead to see roads cut on mountains. These roads are different. Usually we’ve seen mountain roads going in circles around the mountain, gradually gaining height. Here, it is different – you see many switchbacks, in “Z” shape that quickly provides the elevation.

twisties

Z's

Distant Shanti Stupa
Shanti Stupa at distance

Tsemo Gompa is so near, but didn’t I said that I’m not interested!
Tsemo Gompa

The road is fully tarred and we’re are going ahead quickly gaining height.

elevation
That’s just one switchback!

Just then we hear a croak…

Khardungla frog

The Khardung La frog has just seen us. We have to meet him!

khardungla frog 1

meeting the khardungla frog

 

We drive ahead.. tarmac is good and numerous switchbacks provide quick elevation ensuring that we reach the clouds…

road in cloud
We have to go there

elevation through switchbacks
a look below

riding in clouds
Riding in the clouds

On the way, we also meet these..

visitors

 

We drive ahead and reach South Pullu CP.

South Pullu CP

And by the time permit checks are being done, these also reach South Pullu. Trekking to K-Top?

trekking to K-Top

 

After permit checks, we drive ahead to that the road has vanished with tracks on mud, slush and pebbles with poodles all around.

Bad roads

puddle

 

Yesterday, Vishwas had called up to inform that it was snowing at K-top and that it was too cold and they were hardly able to breathe. I was a bit worried whether we would be able to see some snowfall today. However, the snow all around gave some assurance. So we stop.

snow

feeling the snow
Feeling the snow

At one point, the slush ensured that the vehicle would not move forward easily. The loss in engine power coupled with lots of luggage ensured that it would not buzz. We decided to offload 160 Kg’s of stuff then and there… So Tony and I get off 🙂

get down
Till the point that the car would be comfortable taking us in again.

The no-road continued, with some big-sized rocks falling on the road. Luckily, we escape unharmed.

landslide 1

landslide 2

landslide 3

The snow is increasing And then we saw the first traffic in opposite direction. There are some structures behind.. could that be K-Top?

slush

reaching

We drive ahead and see a cell tower. This has to be the K-Top!

oncoming traffic

 

And finally we come across the signboard. Yesss! We’ve reached Khardung La Top!! The time is 1000 hrs.

khardungla gompa

Khardungla signage

 

Ecstatic, we jump out of the car, and yes! The snowfall is there… and so is the rains! I feel much comfortable in cold, so I was just wearing a cotton T-shirt, but the rains necessitated use of at least a windcheater!

windcheater

 

This is the first time in life that I’m witnessing snowfall.. and I do notice that the snowflakes are exactly like the way they are depicted on Christmas Greeting Cards!

snowflakes

 

Time for some shots.. after all you don’t visit K-Top daily unless you are a tourist taxi driver in Leh!

Yayawar and Avi
Me and Avi

Cheetah & Cheena
The 2C’s – Cheetah & Cheena, posing together

Ecstatic with Joy
Ecstatic with joy.. finally I’m here!

Yayawar & Tony
Tony & me

Snowballing with Cheena
Let’s try some snowballing – Cheena & me

The Yayawars!
A group shot – me, Avi, Cheena & Tony (in that order from left)

Rest of the fellow are feeling very cold and are in need for some tea. So it’s the black tea with some good day biscuits 🙂

Some warmth

 

We finish the tea and plan to drive ahead, but then first we need to capture this!

Ice ice baby

 

I went to the souvenir shop to see if they have a cap with them as I’m not carrying one, but they say that caps and hats are out of stock. We spend around 50 minutes on the top, contrary to the advisory. Luckily, none of us feel anything unusual, not even Tony! Good signs!! 🙂

 

Next: Drive from Khardung La Top to Nubra Valley

CONTD…

Total Distance covered: Approx 43 kms

Driving Directions from Leh to Khardung La: Exiting from the Hotel gates, turn left on the Main Tukcha road and drive ahead till you reach a T-point on the Yurthung road. Take left and then drive straight to pass by Army Hospital. Take left fork just ahead of hospital to take Skara road and pass by Zorawar fort on your right. Keep on driving with the road without taking any right or left cut and reach the roundabout where Skara road joins NH1D. Take second exit from the roundabout and drive straight to pass through the Leh gate. Just ahead of the gate, keep right take the right fork and further ahead take the right fork again which seems to going into some market. Follow the road and whenever in doubt at any place, take the right fork. Keep on driving and you’d arrive at South Pullu checkpost. Driving further ahead, you reach Khardung La top.

Shanti Stupa lighted

Day 7 : 15 Aug 2013 : Leh – AMS delays our plan!

At around 0330 hrs, Tony wakes me up stating that he has heavy and unbearable headache and pain in the legs. He further says that probably it would be better for him to catch a flight to Delhi. I ask him to be patient and knock Cheena’s room as all the baggages were kept there and the medicines too. I hand over a combiflam to Tony and ask him to keep one handy to be taken around 0930 if the pain still persists. We go back to our room and I talk through Tony to calm and relax his mind so that he can sleep. Cheena says that he has heard that person hit by AMS shouldn’t sleep. What the hell! My own cure for any pain or ache is just a good 8-9 hours sleep and this should work for Tony too.

I assure Tony that if the pain and AMS doesn’t gets better by evening, I’ll get a flight ticket arranged for him. With the assurance with him, Tony goes to sleep. I advise everyone not to wake him up unless he himself is up.

We wake up leisurely as none of us had any interest to walk up to Polo Ground to see the processions. Tony also had an uneventful sleep, however, he says that he’s still feeling a bit heavy. No problem. We’ll just loiter around today with no agenda.

It had rained during the night and the caretaker is wiping the water off the floor. I start talking to him – Shyam Sunder is the name. Shyam Sunder is from Giridih in Jharkhand and comes every year to Leh to work in Hotels/Guest Houses. He’ll go back in November and then again come back in April. Mode? By train till Jammu and then shared taxis to Leh, which can take upto 5-6 days! He says that though the hotel owners are willing to provide ticket expenses, he doesn’t resorts to the same as otherwise he would be bound with a particular Hotel. So coming on his own gives him the freedom to work for any Hotel that pays him the most! Further, he tells me that most of the people working in Hotels and BRO are from Jharkhand, those in fields are from Nepal and those in shops are locals, so there is a division of work and nobody challenges the status quo thus maintaining their peace and livelihood.

Shyam Sunder gives me some information about Jorchung – that Sonam himself works with the DC office! What?? Had we known, we could have asked him for the permits. But then we might not have got the permits for Turtuk, Chusul & Tsaga La. He also informs that Sonam’s Sis-in-Law is working at the Leh Airport. Cool!! If required, we can ask Sonam to arrange for the tickets.

I got down and asked for Sonam, discussed with him that we need to stay for today too and most probably we will be leaving tomorros. I also inform him that if required, we will entail the services of his Sis-in-Law to get the tickets for Tony. Apparently, lot many visitors via HVK were supposed to come today and Sonam said that he’ll have to see if he could find a room in Jorchung, otherwise he’ll arrange for us in another hotel. Half an hour later, he informed that one room is getting vacated and we just need to shift there. Phew! We’ll not have to go anywhere else.

So we complete our breakfast and come up to our rooms. We pluck some apricots and apples from the branches hanging just outside the room window, and try some snaps.

Plucking apricots
Plucking some apricots

apricots closeup
Close up of a bunch

apple
Apple

kids in backlane
Kids passing by, in the backlanes

reflection in window
That’s a reflection in the window-pane!

vista
Vistas from the room

For lunch, we again go to Sunbeam cafe and again have the same things – Sunbeam cafe – Thupka, Kothey & egg banana chocolate pancake & tea.

Just when we’re back to Jorchung, Cheena receives a call. The call was from one of his friends who incidently at Leh and leaving tomorrow. So while Cheena goes to meet her, we go back to slumber.

Around 1900, Avi wakes me up stating that Cheena has come back with his friend and I should meet her. So we meet. She’s working with INTAC on archeology and had been excavating a Gompa which was buried in landslide. The work is finished now and they’ll be going back to Delhi tomorrow. Cheena tells us that he, Avi and his friend had already been to the Shanti Stupa and in fact they came earlier too around 1600, but I was fast asleep.

Some more pics of Shanti Stupa from their visit:

Shanti Stupa clouded

Distance to Leh Palace
Marker to Leh Palace

Distance to Stok Villege
Marker to Stok villege

Buddha

Mahaparinirvana
Mahaparinirvana

Birth of Buddha
The birth – folklore states that Buddha walked 7 steps just after being born and at every step, a lotus flower bloomed

Defeating Maar
Maar tried different methods to disturb Buddha’s meditation – he ultimately failed!

Dhamma Chakra
Dhamma-Chakra
She’s staying near the German Bakery, so we walk towards her hotel to drop her as well as loiter around in the market. The walk had another objective too – we need to purchase some onions and bell pepper for the maggi’s that we have. Since tomorrow onwards we would not be returning to Leh or any decent town, we should procure them here itself. So we drop her to her hotel and go to market. After strolling the entire market, we couldn’t find onions. On a shop where we procured the bell peppers, the Kashmiri shopkeeper explained that since the supplies come via Jammu-Srinagar route, no trucks have reached Leh in last couple of days (bandh & curfew to blame again) and hence the onions would not be available for couple of more days.

We cross through Datun Sahib ji Gurudwara and walk back to our hotel. The Shanti Stupa is looking very attractive in the lighting that has been done. Cheena dashes out again to click some pic.

Shanti Stupa lighted
Shanti Stupa at night

We have our dinner and then I ask Tony the long awaited question – How is he feeling? Perfectly fine!!!

Peacefully, we go to sleep for tomorrow is a long drive ahead which is manned by the K-Top.

Total Distance from Hotel Jorchung to Shanti Stupa: Approx 3.6 kms

Driving Directions from Hotel Jorchung to Shanti Stupa: Exiting from the Hotel gates, turn left on the Main Tukcha road and drive ahead till you reach a T-point on the Yurthung road. Take right and then drive straight. Keep left where Upper Tukcha road meets at T-point to go straight. Further ahead, take the right fork to remain on Yurthung road.  Further ahead, where the Changspa road meets Yurthung road, there are steps going up to the Shanti Stupa – 500 steps in all! If you’re not sure of climbing the steps, drive straight. Further ahead, the Yurthung road takes a turn and from there itself, the road to Shanti Stupa goes on the left, take left turn to be on Shanti Stupa road. Drive following the road and you’d approach the Shanti Stupa parking.

Straight Road

Day 5 : 13 August 2013 : Kargil to Leh

The plan was to start around 6 and do a leisure drive to Leh spending time at POIs and for photo-ops. However, the complimentary breakfast at the Hotel ensured that we leave around 0720. Couple of calls exchanged with Vishwas and it was decided to meet at the Petrol Bunk on the Leh road.

Getting ready, iPhone was put to good use by Cheena, while the morning hues displayed their colours all around

(more…)

loitering

Day 4 : 12 August 2013 : Udhampur – Srinagar – Kargil

Finally, we crossed Udhampur around 0030 hrs and took left for Srinagar. Reached Jawahar Tunnel at 0238 and while we were trying to take some pic at the entry point, a security personnel came and advised against it. We paid heed to the instructions and drove forward in the tunnel, crossing it by 0315 hrs to be welcomed by the “Welcome to Paradise on Earth” board. (more…)

taarbandi

Day 3 : 11 August 2013 : Jammu to Udhampur on way to Srinagar

Woke up early in the morning around 0330 to get an early start to beat the band. Switched on the TV and learnt that a curfew has been imposed at Jammu, Udhampur, Old Srinagar, Rajauri and some other places. Senior BJP leaders were arrested at airport as they were planned to visit Kishtwar. All these meant that the day will be dramatic and violent. This took out Mughal Road out of equation. The only route that we could have some hope on was NH1D. For now, Mughal Road has to wait, we are getting delayed and so if we still want to be on our original plan, we have to rush through today and cross Srinagar and if possible, Zozilla too. Settled the bill at the Hotel which was 3505 for two rooms, two rounds of tea, veggie sandwitches and simple veggie dinner.

Started at 0400 hrs from the Hotel, which was just next to the bus stand. While coming out of Jammu, we encountered police check posts at various places and at every point, we were asked to turn back and go back to the hotel. We pleaded that we are going for the yatra and our group has already left about an hour earlier. Luckily, a huge group for yatra had left about the same time and they were allowed as they were already in a convoy. Upon much pleading, the police personnel stated that we may be allowed to go, but on our own risk as there is curfew and barbed wires may have been deployed at the outskirts of the city, and that in that case, we would not be allowed to enter Jammu either! We agreed to take the risk as it was highly unlikely that anyone would create a rukus so early in the morning. There was no barbed wired fencing at any place. Quickly, we were on NH and started towards Srinagar. All seemd well, but was it?
vistas

NH1D

Another blow to the plan was made when we reached Tikri border (Udhampur district) at around 0555 hrs. There was a huge line of trucks and ahead to it were cars and taxis, stopped there by police personnel. The police were advising everyone to go back. Go back? Where?? Jammu is now out of questions!! We talked to the police personnel and they informed that a car has been burnt at Udhampur last night and the road was blocked. Further, there were chances of agitators creating further disturbance today and hence no traffic was being allowed.
Barricading

When we talked to the police personnel, we were flatly told “Saari Yatra band ho chuki hai, Jammu waapas chale jaao” (The yatra has been closed, go back to Jammu). We told the situation at Jammu and that we can’t go back there too, to which he replied “Katra jaao, Maata ke darshan karo aur teen din baad aana” (Go to Katra, Visit Vaishno Devi and come back after three days)! What?? This would mean that our entire plan goes for a toss! We pleaded further with the personnel and told him that this would mean cancellation of the entire trip. On this he asked us to come again late evening around 2100-2200 hrs and “maybe” that we’ll be allowed to go.

Having no other option, we decided it to be better to spend the day at Katra as it was just about 18 kms from Tikri, and then come back in the evening after resting during the day. So we went to Katra. Just before entering Katra town, there is a checkpost. A young policeman aged around 25 waved our car to stop. He asked the general questions, where are we coming from and where are we headed and whether we are carrying any contraband. We explained everything to him. He was satisfied and said “Jai Mata Di” while shaking hands with Cheena who was driving and then he kind of itched on his palms asking for “kuchh sewa”. Though I am dead against this practice and we weren’t doing anything wrong, I’d not have given to his demands. But then everyone thought of the hassle of unloading all the lugguage and getting it checked and then decided to give a 100 rupee note to him. Unfortunately, the car dvr went full and overwrote the recordings for the day and hence I’d not be able to post the pic unlike thought earlier.
Katra

In the meanwhile, HVK updated that Rohit had reached Srinagar yesterday and he has started for Zozila. He also informed that there had been a major landslide between Srinagar and Sonmarg and probably the roads were closed. At the same time, talked to Vishwas, who would be coming from Pune and would have reached Srinagar last night. Vishwas intimated that everything is absolutely fine in Srinagar and they are roaming the market!

Reached Katra and straightaway went to Trikuta Bhawan to see if we could get some dormatory for the day. Luckily, they were available and booked four beds. Had something to stuff in our empty stomach in the market – tea and buttered buns. Came back, and had breakfast in the no profit no loss based run canteen – Poori-Chhole, and slept for a couple of hours. At around 1400 during lunch in the canteen(customery kadhi-chawal), Cheena suggested that we leave early by 1500 to reach Tikri just in case they allow to leave early. I opposed the idea, knowing fully how the system works and advised to leave around 1800. Voting done and we decided to leave at 1600 hrs.
Trikuta Bhawan

Dormatory

Kadhi-Chawal

We started as decided at 1600 hrs and just as we were about to get out of the Katra town limits, a Policeman at the checkpost waved his hand to stop. Again the same questions, where, why and all that. And then he said that we can’t got to Srinagar as it’s all blocked. We tried to reason with him that Police personnel at Tikri had assured us to release the traffic. On further discussion, he grew angry and said “main samjha raha hoon aapko, aaplog samajhna hi nahin chahte. Yatra cancel ho gayee hai aur route band hai. Aap Jammu waapas jaao. Idhar se nahin jaane denge”!

Again the entire plan seemed to be going down the drain. And then my mind clicked. I kind of consulted everyone in a loud voice so that he can also hear and said that now that we’ve lost 2-3 days and the yatra is not happening, our leaves are also finishing, lets go back to Delhi. Let’s go as the gentleman is suggesting – afterall he is doing his duty! Everyone agreed to me understanding that I had some plan. I then pleaded the policeman to let us go now as we were going back via Jammu. Now another volley came from him – “Jamme jaana hai to idhar se mat jao. Peechhe ek raasta hai, wo pakdo aur seedha NH pe nikal jaaoge Jammu ke taraf”. What the hell? We didn’t noticed any road? Where would that road lead? Afterall I didn’t planned to go back all the way to Jammu! Further enquiry yielded that the road is internal village one and would lead eight kms ahead towards Jammu on NH. What the heck! Let’s take the road, at least we will pass this checkpost! What if there would be another checkpost and this one would wireless them? Will see what happens, but at least lets go from here. We also decided that we would not be taking the pretext of Yatra anymore and straightaway tell that we’re going to Ladakh.

Went down the road, which was kind of single road, broken at multiple sections. Reached NH1D and took left again towards Tikri. No checkpost and we passed the area without any issues. Hurray!! Or not yet!
Katra road

Reached Tikri at 1800 hrs to find a long queue of vehicles and trucks. Seems that reasonable sense prevailed and cars and smaller vehicle were allowed to reach to an open area before the checkpost and trucks were asked to form a queue alongside the road. The police arrangement was more stronger than the morning and we met people who were there from early morning waiting for the traffic to be opened. Talked to the policemen and they said that they wouldn’t open the traffic unless they have orders from the top.
long queue

What a situation it was! There were children and ladies, waiting from the morning, at a place which didn’t had even one dhaba to provide food or even tea. People started agitating and complaining about the same. And then the authorities arranged for free food for everyone who was willing to take it – roti, chawal, daal and pickles.. tea too! I observed that most of the people, taxi drivers were not even going for the food – strange! I thought to try the food myself and then I realised the reason. The people distributing food themselves were religious fanatics and shouting “Bam Bhole” at everyone who came for food. I talked to some taxi drivers and they appeared to be too frightened. Reason being they belonged to Srinagar and were Muslims and had to pass through Udhampur. What they stated was frightening as well as shameful in a free and secular country. They said “Saab. aap log to nikal jaaoge, bahar ki gaadi hai. Ye raat mein jhuk ke number plate pe torch maar ke gaadi select karte hain maar-peet karne ke liye”. I assured some of them that we will be ahead of them and they can follow us to quickly pass through disturbed area.
trucks

loitering

In the meanwhile, Cheena called up his office at NDTV to provide the update live from the spot and see if a voice over can be done.
cheena calling NDTV

Time passed by and there was no sign of traffic being released. What we saw that the police were allowing local numbered cars to pass through. Then came the DSP and ordered deployment of barbed wires on the road so that no vehicle would cross. The barbed wires were deployed and it was announced that the traffic will not be allowed at all for next couple of days. On talking with him separately and informing that one of our guys was working for NDTV, he updated that the traffic is likely to be open later in the night, but they are not announcing it right now. So all in all it’s a wait and watch game.
barbed wire

taarbandi

Finally at 22:25 hrs, the borders were opened and vehicles allowed to go with strict instructions to be in a convoy and not to break it. And then everyone seemed to be in a tearing hurry to cross Udhampur as soon as possible.
Tikri

Quite at couple of places, we observed that the fear with the Srinagar taxi drivers were not unjust. What we noticed was some hooligans at isolated places, with sticks, rods, hockey sticks and even torches in hand. They appeared to be fully drunk and trying to leverage the tensed situation to vent out their own frustration over some unknown. At one place, one of them tried to smash the windscreen, but fortunately he was drunk and we were in speed, so by the time he swayed his hand, we crossed him. Phew!!!

CONTD…

Total Distance covered: Approx 88 Kms

Driving Directions from Jammu to Tikri (Udhampur) border: Drive ahead on Shalamar road towards Indira chowk and take third exit from the roundabout. Pass by SMGS Hospital and take the second exit from the roundabout on Secretariat road. Drive ahead, pass by Kachi Chawni road and take the second exit at the roundabout near All India Radio. Drive alongside the Tawi river for a couple of minutes and join the NH1A on Nagrota bypass road. Ahead of the Indian Oil petrol bunk, take the left fork to remain on Nagrota bypass road. Keep on NH1A and take right fork at Domel to remain on NH1A itself. Pass by Jhajjar Kotli and reach Tikri checkpost.

Since we were turned back, we came back again till Domel and took the right fork (it was left fork while going to Tikri from Jammu) to be on the Katra road. Pass by Country Inn and go past the checkpost. Drive on straight towards the bus stand and take the right fork at Hotel The Vaishnodevi to reach the bus stand. Trikoota Bhawan is situated just besides the bus stand.

On return journey from Katra to Tikri, we took the Kashmere road to pass by Helipad and Purana Droorh towards Udhampur-Katra road. Near Sumdrani, we were again denied taking the Udhampur-Katra road and hence had to turn back and take a nondescript route towards Shri Mata Vaishno Devi University, also known as SMVDU road or Domel-Katra road. Pass by University, Jib talab and join NH1A just before Jhajjar Kotli by turning left and drive ahead to Tikri